AHA/BHA: 5 things to know before use for effective skincare

Have you heard of BHAs and AHAs?

These two acids are becoming increasingly common in skincare routines. They help achieve a smooth, radiant complexion through chemical exfoliation, rather than mechanical exfoliation like a simple scrub.

However, be careful to choose the right acid, as each is suited to a different skin type.

In this article, we'll explain what BHAs and AHAs are, their benefits for your skin, how to choose between them, and finally, how to properly integrate them into your skincare routine!

 

1- BHAs: WHAT ARE THEY?

Beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) affect the top layer of the skin, as well as inside the pores.

The most common BHA in cosmetics is salicylic acid. It is a fat-soluble acid derived from meadowsweet and white willow. Inhibiting the development of viruses, fungi, and bacteria, it is perfectly suited for oily skin.

A BHA-based lotion can help combat acne by preventing the development of "cutibacterium acnes" (microorganisms that cause the inflammatory reactions characteristic of acne).

In the case of acne, it can reduce the pain caused by certain pimples, as well as reduce redness. Natural products exist to treat acne naturally.

The sebum-regulating role of salicylic acid helps reduce the appearance of blackheads.

In addition, BHAs promote the destruction of dead cells on the superficial part of the skin by breaking their connections, making "room" for the renewal of epidermal cells.

The use of BHAs also provides the following benefits:

• purifying action;
• powerful keratolytic action that performs a gentle peel;
• fights inflammation thanks to its soothing properties;
• improves skin texture regularity;
• helps pimples disappear.

 

2- AHAs: WHAT ARE THEY?

Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) are water-soluble acids that act on the skin's surface.

Different acids make up the AHA category. Among them are: glycolic, lactic, mandelic, citric, and malic acids.

• Lactic acid:

Lactic acid can be obtained from the fermentation of certain fruits or milk. If you have dry skin, turn to it. It is a very gentle acid, making it a good solution for this skin type. With its use, your skin remains hydrated much more easily (which is essential for caring for sensitive skin).

• Mandelic acid:

Mandelic acid penetrates less deeply into the skin than glycolic acid. Its more superficial action has the advantage of greatly minimizing the risk of irritation! This almond-derived acid also helps reduce hyperpigmentation. Finally, mandelic acid helps even out skin tone.

• Glycolic acid:

Glycolic acid is the AHA with the best reputation for effectiveness. This active ingredient derived from sugarcane penetrates deeply into the skin. This allows it to have excellent exfoliating action.

Glycolic acid also serves to:

• brighten the skin;

• regulate sebum production;

• perform a gentle peel that does not damage the skin barrier.

 

• Citric acid:

Citric acid, which can be extracted from lemons, can lighten the skin and reduce hyperpigmentation.

• Malic acid:

Malic acid is another chemical exfoliant regularly used in cosmetic products. Extracted from apples, it has moisturizing and rebalancing properties for the skin, in addition to stimulating collagen production.

 

 

 

3- ARE BHAs CARCINOGENIC AND ENDOCRINE DISRUPTORS?

The IARC (International Agency for Research on Cancer) has classified them as potentially carcinogenic, but based on studies conducted on a model not transposable to humans.

Currently, no data has evaluated the carcinogenicity of BHAs. According to AFSSAPS, "recent studies on BHA toxicity suggest a potential for endocrine disruption. However, these studies identify a no-effect dose level allowing the calculation of a safety margin." The concentrations present in cosmetics are less than 0.04 percent.

 

4- HOW TO PROPERLY ADD AHAs/BHAs TO YOUR SKINCARE ROUTINE?

Since these two acids are powerful active ingredients, it is important to take some precautions before starting to use them.

Do not use them to replace your lotion or moisturizer. Indeed, their moisturizing properties are very slight.

Furthermore, their primary functions are exfoliation and stimulation of cell renewal: it is therefore all the more important to properly moisturize your skin after using AHAs or BHAs.

By proceeding in this order, you will also achieve better penetration of cosmetic products applied afterwards.

Why?: Because once your skin is rid of the dead cells that covered it, there is no longer a barrier to the absorption of products by your skin.

Next, remember to be extra vigilant about sun exposure. Chemical exfoliation of your skin has the effect of thinning the stratum corneum, which plays a protective role against UV rays.

That said, try to get into the habit of applying SPF 50 sunscreen every two hours during the day: this way you'll be sure to apply enough, regardless of any treatments performed. Ideally, still avoid sun exposure after applying AHAs/BHAs.

By using these products in the evening before going to bed, you simplify your life by not having to make an effort to avoid exposure to UV rays (unless you sleep in Northern Finland in mid-summer with the blinds open, but we can't help you with that...).

 

5- CAN AHA AND BHA BE USED AT THE SAME TIME?

No, avoid using AHAs and BHAs in parallel: this can lead to over-exfoliation of the epidermis, which damages the skin barrier and causes irritation.

If you use vitamin C in parallel, it's not a major issue, just be aware that the benefits of both products will be diminished.

Regardless of the AHA/BHA product you're testing, introduce it gradually; you can even use it only once during the first week of testing!

Don't force it if you feel your skin reacts badly: just because a cosmetic is beneficial for many doesn't mean it's definitely beneficial for you!

If you have skin with a special skin condition like rosacea or eczema, PHAs (Poly Hydroxy Acids) might be more suitable for you. Lactobionic acid is the most commonly used in this group.

Do you already have a skincare routine but want to improve it? Discover the Korean skincare routine, ideal for long-term skin care.